Wednesday, 27 November 2013

Pilgrim's prayer

The church in the tiny hamlet of O Cebreiro is extremely beautiful and dominates the hamlet . On 10th October I was able to concelebrate with Padre Roberto. At the entrance to the Church is a chapel adorned with the following :

Aunque hubiera recorrido todos los caminos
Cruzado montanas y valles desde Oriente hasta Occidente,
si no he descubierto la libertad de ser yo mismo
no he llegado a ningun sitio.

Aunque hubiera compartido todos mis bienes
con gentes de otra lengua y cultura,
hecho amistad con peregrinos de mil senderos
o compartido albergue con santos y principes,
si no soy capaz de perdonar maƱana a mi vecino
no he llegado a ningun sitio.

Aunque hubiera cargado mi mochila de principio a fin
y esperado por cada peregrino necesitado de animo,
o cedido mi cama a quien llego despues,
y regalado mi botellin de agua a cambio de nada,
si de regreso a mi casa y mi trabajo no soy capaz
de crear fraternidad y poner alegria, paz y unidad,
no he llegado a ningun sitio.

Aunque hubiera tenido comida y agua cada dia,
y disfrutado de techo y ducha todas las noches,
o hubiera sido bien atendido de mis heridas
si no he descubierto en todo ello el amor de Dios
no he llegado a ningun sitio.

Aunque hubiera visto todos los monumentos
y contemplado las mejores puestas del sol;
Aunque hubiera aprendido un saludo en cada idioma,
o probado el agua limpia de todas las fuentes,
si no he descubierto quien es autor
de tanta belleza gratuita y tanta paz
no he llegado a ningun sitio.

Si a partir de hoy no sigo caminando en tus caminos,
buscando y viviendo segun lo aprendido;
Si a partir de hoy no veo en cada persona,
amigo y enemigo,un companero de caminos;
Si a partir de hoy no reconozco a Dios
el Dios de Jesus de Nazaret, como el unico Dios de mi vida,
no he llegado a ningun sitio.


Translation to follow!

The Beatitudes of the Pilgrim

On my third day in Spain I called at a small convent outside Pamplona . I was given the following text to help reflection on the Camino:

THE BEATITUDES OF THE PILGRIM

1.  Blessed are you pilgrim, if you discover that the 'Camino opens your eyes to what is not seen.
2.  Blessed are you pilgrim,if what concerns you most is not to arrive as to arrive with others.
3.  Blessed are you pilgrim,when you contemplate the ' Camino ' and you discover it is full of names and dawns.
4.  Blessed are you pilgrim, because you have discovered that the authentic 'Camino' begins when it is completed.
5.  Blessed are you pilgrim,if your knapsack is emptying of things and your heart does not know where to hang up so many feelings and emotions.
6.  Blessed are you pilgrim,if you discover that one step back to help another is more valuable than a hundred forward without seeing what is at your side.
7.  Blessed are you pilgrim,when you don't have words to give thanks for everything that surprises you at every twist and turn of the way.
8.  Blessed are you pilgrim,if you search for the truth and make the 'Camino' a life, and of your life a way in search of the One who is the Way,the Truth and the Life.
9.  Blessed are you pilgrim,if on your way you meet yourself and gift yourself with time without rushing so as not to disregard the image in your heart.
10. Blessed are you pilgrim,if you discover that the ' Camino'holds a lot of silence,and the silence of prayer. The prayer of meeting with God who is waiting for you.

Tuesday, 26 November 2013

Healing hands

After a relatively disturbed night in Nogaro the four of us set off together . The intense heat had broken and there was a threat of rain. It was one of the least interesting days with much road walking . I arrived at Aire sur L'Adour before 1 and immediately asked for directions to the Gite . When I arrived there was a notice saying that the Gite would open at 2.30 . I finished off my bread and settled down to wait . I was eventually joined by Pierre and Isabel . At 2.30 Andre,the owner emerged . He was quite put out that we had been waiting and said that we should have rung the bell . I said that he had every right to his rest.
The gite was really a private house and Andre plied us with drinks before he showed us our rooms . He also offered to tend to our feet.
As there was rain threatening he offered to help us dry our washing. Since the first day I had been troubled with a few blisters and so I asked Andre to look at them . He turns out to have been a paramedic who first undertook the Camino in the 1980s. In those days there were no paths and few places to stay he said . You literally had to make your own path!
He carefully worked on my feet for half an hour and then proceeded to refuse the money I offered to help cover the cost of his medical supplies. (From that day onwards I didn't have a single problem with my feet!)
At the start of supper Andre asked me to say grace. I started in French and ended up in Spanish . Andre commented that this was appropriate since the supper was Paella! Andre managed to create a deep atmosphere of reflection and the gathering was quite profound.

A decisive day and choices

After Golinhac the number of wayside crosses increased considerably.Like Chapels, I used them as an opportunity to stop and pray.The final descent into Conques was quite precipitous. It reminded me of the paths in the mountains of Chalatenango. I was joined at this point by Carolina the Dutch girl that I had met two days previously. I commented to her that the entrance to the new museum at Copan in Honduras is shaped like the mouth of a serpent. For the Mayans this signifies entering a new reality. In many ways the arrival at Conques felt similar.
 The Abbey only comes into view when it is less than 50 metres away. I took Carolina to see the tympanum before we checked into the Abbey guesthouse. Despite the satisfaction of knowing that the first stage of the pilgrimage was now complete, when I got to my room I felt a real sense of heaviness and wondered why I was on the Chemin.  It was a thought I would come back to. The community had invited all of the guests to share Vespers and Compline. Carolina and I went to Vespers-the cantor had a stunning voice which filled the corners of this dramatic building. At supper we sat with Daniel and Tim (Dutch man). Compline was even more dramatic than Vespers and it concluded with the blessing of the Pilgrims. Each pilgrim was offered a copy of the Gospel of John to take with them. We were invited to sing  Ulreia as we processed to the carving of the Virgin for the singing of the Salve. The silence at the end was broken by the organ. Afterwards the leader of the community gave a long description of the tympanum and its significance. It was a special experience to stand in front of the tympanum as the light faded.Afterwards we were given the freedom of the Abbey as the organ was played.
I must also mention that the two men from Normandy were there and greeted me warmly. They were clearly embarrassed about what had happened. They said that there were two empty beds which could easily have been used for the other English couple . I was touched by their concern and understanding.

Wednesday, 30 October 2013

The thinning' time

With the sun setting around 6pm and a chill in the air there is a reminder that a journey which began in high summer is drawing to a close at the onset of winter . Here in the Celtic heartland of Galicia this is the 'thinning time' - the period when the spheres between the spirit world and the material world are at their thinnest.Late last week I was at Fisterra which is where the Celts believed that the two worlds actually met . The tensions between the spiritual and the material have been constant during this pilgrimage . I have been invited to examine my motives and revise my priorities.
The profound tranquillity of walking by the Ocean at Muxia on Saturday and the intimacy of the Mass in the Cathedral today have been fitting codas to this immense undertaking . It is now 11 days since I arrived at Santiago.Even now the sheer scale of the achievement is beyond me . Someone once said to me that living is about standing on the tiny piece of earth that you inhabit . All I can say is that I feel that I stand more securely than I did eleven weeks ago.
When asked to reflect on the Camino in Emaus at Burgos I referred to the Camino as a school . The lessons that we learn on the Camino are the ones that we are called to apply in daily life.That will be the challenge and will be the true test . It is not a question of looking back with nostalgia to eleven amazing weeks but living what I have experienced and shared with so many remarkable people.
While I was at lunch today there was a Galician film on in the dining room tracing the Camino from St Jean to Santiago . As I watched I realised that I had walked every step of the way and 850km more!

Monday, 28 October 2013

The Magi

From the beginning of this journey the poem of TS Eliot- The Journey of the Magi-has been a constant reference.Journeying Westwards guided by a star has held resonances throughout . There is a special resonance at Santiago . The Portico de Gloria is,arguably,one of the greatest expressions of Romanesque art . What is less well known is that there is a second portico in the Cathedral by the same master and its subject is the Adoration of the Magi! As I stood before it today I reflected on how Eliot has the Magi changed by their journey . I wonder just how much I have been changed by mine!
Mass today was something special . When I arrived at the sacristy my name was already written down and an English text provided . As it turned out the only other priest was the Celebrant (actually the Dean of the Cathedral). He was extremely friendly and keen that I return next year as an English speaking Chaplain to the Cathedral . During the readings he indicated that I should read the Gospel . Santiago is one of the greatest Cathedrals in Christendom and to read the gospel in Spanish was a huge joy . I read the concelebrants parts of the Eucharistic Prayer in English . It was a truly blessed moment . After Mass the priest introduced me to the coordinator for English speaking pilgrims who turned out to be a Scot from Glasgow and a friend of one of my best friends to boot! He hopes that I can return next year for anything up to a month . What a note to end on!

A second bite at the cherry

As I walked out of the hotel in search of breakfast I realised that this is the Feast of St Simon and St Jude. Long before I arrived at Dulce Nombre de Maria one of my predecessors had made an individual parishioner responsible for each main feast . During my time at DNMa the person responsible for this Feast was my next door neighbour Rosa Galdamez who was the wife of Napoleon Flores(Don Napo) The whole Flores Galdamez family have become great friends and I still stay with them when I visit El Salvador . It is a lovely connection especially as I intend to ask permission to concelebrate in the Cathedral today.
Yesterday morning I was due to get the bus before breakfast was served . Despite the early hour, the girl in reception in the hotel at Muxia prepared fresh Orange juice and coffee before I set off to catch the bus . She even offered to make toast.
 As we waited by the placid Atlantic there was a beautiful sunrise rivalling that of two weeks ago at Portomarin. As I watched it I thought of the numerous beautiful sunrises over the last two months. Travelling over 100km on a bus was a strange experience. It is the furthest that I have travelled in motorised transport since 13th August.Towards the end we passed some of the way markers from my route of last Monday . We came into Santiago right by the Hesperia Peregrino where Alex,her dad and I had stayed . I dropped my rucksack at my Hotel before heading back to the Cathedral . It is amazing how the Cathedral is very much the heart of Santiago.
Compared to last Sunday the Cathedral took time to fill up . By noon, however, it was packed . I have been impressed by the quality of the sermons given at the Pilgrims Masses - sadly many pilgrims do not understand the Spanish! The singing was,once again,beautiful.
After a good lunch and a siesta I had another wander through the city with the Cathedral bathed in late evening sunshine . During the night it rained heavily but today has dawned a soft Autumn day.
I checked out a few things in the city then headed to the sacristy to enquire about concelebrating . The Cathedral at Santiago has its own version of a beefeater- red tunicked officials whose main office is to operate the Botafumeiro.One of them was coming out of the sacristy . You are a priest, he said . Of course you can concelebrate and you don't have to ask the nuns! And so,on a second feast of the Apostles, I will get my second bite at the cherry.Nina Rosita (now dead) will be thrilled as will Don Napo and the rest of the family.