No hay de que somos nosotros los agredecidos a ustedes

I can think of fewer more congenial places to write a blog! I am sitting at 1400metres above sea level in the hamlet of Foncebadon. There is not a cloud in the sky and the final movements of Beethovens 9th is playing. However there is much to relate before I reach this point.On Saturday I set off from Villavente with Pauline and David. It was a stunning day and the views to the mountains and Astorga took your breath away. Beyond the city the closeness of the mountains was a sign that Galicia was getting closer.
On my way down to the city I passed a group of men picking their grapes and then weighing them. It seemed like a Spanish version of an allotment. As I got closer to the city the heat became intense. I arrived below the Cathedral around 12.30 but realised that the cumulative effects of the cold were now on me. I stopped at a pharmacy to get something for my throat. Eventually I found my lodgings right on the edge of the City. After a shower at the hotel I collapsed into bed and slept for more than 3 and a half hours! I had a drink with Pauline and David and then slept again until 8.30am. I realised that it was the first time since August 11th that I had been able to sleep beyond 6.00am!
On Sunday morning I was shocked at how cold it was even after 9am. I visited the amazing Gaudi Bishop´s Palace and then attended Mass in the Cathedral. The theme was that of faith. I realised that it is only by faith that you can complete the Camino. If you rely on your own strength then you will fail!
At the end of mass I felt quite emotional to think that in two weeks time I could be attending mass in the Cahtedral at Santiago.
I had a leisurely lunch but the cold has put me off my food and slept a lot again.
On Monday I had a coffe at the hotel and set off in the dark wearing clothes that had been stored at the bottom of my rucksack since August. At Santa Catalina de Somoza I met two campesinos. I stopped and said buenas dias. They responded with the familiar ´buen camino´. I said ´muchas gracias´and one of them said: ´no hay de que somos nosotros los agredecidos a ustedes´. in others words -we are the ones who are grateful to you. It was a profound comment about their faith in those who do the Camino.
At Rabanal del Camino I visited the Benedictine foundation but found them less than welcoming and so joined Simon and walked on to Fonbardon. The views were stunning. After the usual routine I joined Angela and her daughters for a drink.

God´s Clown

There is a story from the recent papal conclave whose source is Pope Francis himself. He relates how´ after the election but before the formal process was completed a cardinal who was sitting next to him- a fellow South American- leant over and said simply ´remember the poor´. The Pope relates that it was at that moment the name Francis came to him. Today is the feast of St Francis of Assisi  and, as I recounted in an earlier post, Francis walked the Camino. Simplicity, an awareness of the awesome beauty of nature, and living by evangelical values are archytypically the values of the camino.
Today the beauty of nature has been super abundant . After the interminable flatness of the Meseta the mountains of Leon are visible in the far distance. The hills are getting closer, the birds are singing everywhere, and the path climbs steadily westwards.
Pope Francis appears to be a ´mould-breaker´just as his namesake came into conflict with the ecclesiascal and civil authorities of his day. It is remarkable that francis of Assisis commitment to evangelical poverty was too radical even for his own followers. The gospel always calls us forward and deeper. I have a profound sense that´as I enter the latter stages of the pilgrimage, I am called to even more radical refelction. The Camino seems to take layer after layer off you. The ´naked intent unto God´of the Cloud of Unknowing becomes a reality. In many ways Francis of Assisis was ´God´s clown´and we are called to be the same.
What is also clear today is that the mornings are getting really cold . There was a lovely moment at Villar de Mazarife.On the side of the road was a sign advertising three albergues. It read: Jesus,Tio Pepe,and St Antony of Papua! I felt that someone had a sense of humour.
Villavante felt like a town where nothing happens! The owner of the Albergue Santa Lucia was quite welcoming and I was soon sitting at the side of the street on a glorious afternoon . I was joined by a lady from Massachusets called Carrie who would later feature in the final days of my journey to Santiago . By late afternoon the albergue was packed and,as my cold developed,I had an uncomfortable night.

Colour and light

There is no doubt that this has been the most difficult week so far . There are three reasons for this . Today was the start of my eighth week on the road . I have walked for 47 of the last 50 days! It is easy to forget that a pilgrimage is a time of deprivation and cleansing . St Paul understood this perfectly . The Spirit comes to help us in our weakness,he says in the Letter to the Romans . He also says when I am weak then I am strong . It is precisely at this stage of the pilgrimage that God can manifest Himself . The challenge is to stay focused and open.
The second reason for the difficult week has been the weather! Rain has never been far away and Tuesday was one of the most miserable days I have known . Again the challenge is to realise that God is present in every circumstance.
The third reason is that I have a cold! (Probably the result of the weather.)
In the evening at La Casa del Cura Henna was quite concerned about a missing sock! Rummaging through my sack I found the offending item to her great relief. She,and Leo, have given us attention to rival the Ferme de Bouysse.
On Wednesday morning Leo served us breakfast and wished us well. Fortunately the rain had relented as we made our way across the Meseta . To the north we got fleeting glimpses of the Picos de Europe. From Calzadilla to Reliegos there are almost 17km of relatively similar countryside. Beyond Reliegos we followed the road to the quaintly named Mansanilla de Las Mulas. Our albergue had the name 'El Jardin del Camino' but exhibited little of a garden and was functional inside. After the luxury and conviviality of the Casa del Cura it was a bit of a shock . We were soon joined by Pauline and David who had decided to take the bus into Leon the following day.
When Simon and I walked the 12km I realised that they had made a good choice! Our route was along a busy road, which made conversation impossible, and then through the outer suburbs of Leon.  As rain was threatening we stopped for a coffee and ended up in deep conversation with the barman.
Entering Leon the rain finally started and we donned our wet gear . I managed to get us lost but was rewarded with an experience which took my breath away. Turning up a tiny street we were suddenly confronted by the soaring buttresses of Leon Cathedral towering over the surrounding area .The effect was mesmerising . It is amazing how medieval Cathedrals still have the capacity to inspire awe.
By now it was pouring down and I entered the Cathedral. I tried my 'I'm a priest' line at the entrance but the only discount offered was that for pensioners!
I have never visited Chartres . It is high on my wishlist!  After Chartres it is claimed that Leon has the greatest collection of stained glass in Europe . On this gloomy morning,and even though I have been in the Cathedral twice before,the quality and variety of glass truly took my breath away . Having been in Burgos just a week ago I reflected that the artistry of Burgos is in the stone and that of Leon in the glass . I was reminded of Daniel's comment in Cahors that these buildings are a statement of faith about their creators . It was certainly a moment to savour.
Outside in the pouring rain I met David and Pauline. Over a coffee we arranged to meet at the albergue just outside the city. Again they chose the more sensible option by taking the bus as the route out passed through nondescript suburbs and warehouses. At the albergue they told me that they had met Amede heading out of the city.

At the house of the priest.

Since Saturday I have been walking with Simon who is from Melbourne . He is the father of three and I have enjoyed his company . Most evenings we meet up with Pauline and David . On Monday we were at Terredilos de los Templarios and were trying to arrange lodgings for Tuesday . I asked the girls to help but the first place gave a different number and the second did not answer . Eventually I got through to the Casa del Cura in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos  . I booked two rooms at€2 each.
Tuesday 1st October proved to be the wettest day  of the Camino so far. (Many pilgrims took the pragmatic decision and made their way in public transport.) Simon and I donned full waterproofs and trudged off . As we approached Sahara (which Brierley wrongly claims has a population of 170,000!) we encountered a Danish lady on her cycle . The three of us negotiated the puddles to visit the Ermita Virgen de Puente, sadly closed.
In Sahagun we headed for a coffee and found more pilgrims waiting for a bus. I visited a pharmacy as I felt that a cold was coming on. Simon also needed waterproof trousers. As we left Sahagun Simon retired behind some trees to change his trousers.
The final 9 km to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos was on a straight path which closely resembled a lake!It was a huge relief when the village came into view .
When I arrived at the hostel two ladies were asking the price. Despite the appalling conditions they turned away.Henna the owner greeted me warmly . It was exactly the right place for a wet day . The house had an open -plan room and a central staircase . In the bathroom there was a bath!
When Simon arrived I was ready for my bath. Sadly his rucksack had fared badly in the conditions and everything was soaked. I suggested that he had a bath and then we would have some lunch.
Downstairs I met Leo who was the husband of Henna . When I checked in I pointed out that it was appropriate that I should be in the priest's house and Leo addressed me as Padre. I ordered a glass of wine and was given delicious cheese with bread and olive oil . Simon and I enjoyed delicious seafood soup and salad . Leo was constantly offering witty comments.
Later David and Pauline arrived and Angela from north of Melbourne . She is the mother of seven and is walking the Camino with two of her daughters.Henna asked me whether we would be happy to have supper together .She also took away everybody's wet clothes and said that she would sort them. Eventually Silvia from Chile and her friend Rebecca arrived as did Nigel and Dale . I had met these two in Carrion.Nigel is an Anglican priest in Suffolk and Dale is an electrician from Devon . I blessed the table and the food and we had a delicious meal. At the end Leo appeared with some of his father in law's local liqueur . It was a very happy gathering. Apart from Emaus in Burgos,this was the first time that I had experienced anything like the fellowship that had been common place in France . It may have cost more to stay at the Casa del Cura but it was worth every euro!

Photos

Photos

St Martin Fromista

Footfalls.

Yesterday my elder brother sent me a text in which Dante refers to the Camino. Beatrice identifies St James in this way: ¨look, look! This is the saint because of whom on earth Galicia is visited!" What my brother did not know is that the previous evening in Carrion de Los Condes I had stayed in a Monastery of Poor Clares where St Francis of Assisi had stayed. When I was preparing for the camino I found out that it is possible that Geoffrey Chaucer might have done the camino before he wrote the Canterbury Tales. Between St Francis of Assisi, Dante Alighieri, and Geoffrey Chaucer we have three of the most significant figures of the 12th - 14th century. This proves to me that the Camino is something that has figured in European history for more than a thousand years. That is an awesome fact. What we attempt today is part of the long march of humanity. Of course it is not just recent history . From the Aubrac, through the Causse,and right to Galicia, the presence of dolmens and standing stones remind us that this path has been trod for many thousands of years.
On 1st September I set off from Saint Antoine with Raphael and Hubert in the gloom on an extraordinarily hot day. During September I walked for 28 out of the 30 days. The 1st of Ocotber could not have been more different. it was pouring with rain when we set off and the rain did not let up throughout the six hours of walking. It was truely a day when you knew that you had walked the camino. What added to the exertion is that,beyond Carrion,there is the longest stretch (17km) without a single village.
After 45 days there is a certain weariness. It is not physical - although I am currently nursing a slight cold- it is the waeriness of the absence of creature comforts and the endless adjustment to the rigours of community living in close quarters. For four days the walking has been in terrble conditions. But, of course, that is the penitential aspect of the Camino. We have to be stripped of our ilusions and we have to be made aware of our humaness. It is truely a ´Via Purgativo.´´
With October beginnig it is clear that the stages of the process are much clearer. There is a focus in knowing that Santiago is now only a couple of weeks away.
At the Monastery in Carrion the nuns were singing the novena of St Francis whose feast is on friday. Francis was a man of great simplicity and evangelical poverty. He is clearly an inspiration to each one of us. It is so appropriate that Pope Francis has made this the clear message of his papacy. As I move through the Camino I am conscious that it is an opportunuty to make choices for the future which will have implications both for the way I live and for the way in which I relate to others.