Pure Spain

It was strange to have a free afternoon,especially as there wasn't much to explore. As I was writing my blog a couple from the USA came into the dormitory. Later they were joined by two French ladies who were part of a bigger group. I was talking to one of them and they are going all the way to Santiago.
I had arranged to meet Jan for supper at 7. Charles was staying in the same lodgings. At 6.30 he and I set off. It was a dry but cold evening and we both agreed that it was too cold to have supper in the square. We found a hotel which had a 12€ menu. I established that it was open at 7 and that there was no need to book. We went back to the square, ordered a glass of wine and waited for the others to arrive. Charles told me that he had been scheduled to do the walk in the spring but got injured. It was a happy accident as his elder brother was dying of cancer. We would have missed the conversations which I had before he died. Jan turned up with the Danish lady and then the Swiss man who turned out to be a chocolate maker! We had a good supper although my plate of chickpeas raised some ribald comments.

The pilgrim' s day now takes a clear pattern. Usually you are up before 7.00am and walking at first light . I have a routine of prayer which I say aloud if there is no one nearby. I usually fall into a reflection, this morning it was on Psalm 50. The particular lines which affected me this morning were:
"O wash me more and more from my guilt
and cleanse me from my sin"
 I am certain that the pilgrimage is a way of spiritual cleansing and renewal. During the 5-7 hours of walking there is ample opportunity to reflect on whatever comes up. Often it is a memory of a person or an event and it is easy to offer it to God in a spirit of repentance.
Today there were two lovely Spanish moments. The first began most inauspiciously. When I arrived yesterday I booked breakfast even though it was not until 7.30. I mentioned this to Charles last night and he said that he would do the same. I bumped into him just after 7.00am and he asked about breakfast. I said that it didn't start until 7.30. We went and sat outside. Jan and Gony passed by. Gony came over to get my blog address. By 7.30 there was no sign of anyone. I told Charles that I would get my sack and head off. When I returned with my sack there was a light on in the room. I tried the door and it was locked. Then the shutter opened. I rang the bell and, after a few minutes, a large and dishevelled lady appeared and told me to wait!  Eventually, when she let me in, I could observe that the table was not set. With little ceremony she put a cup of coffee in front of me. I couldn't help noticing that her generous figure was having difficulty in staying in her blouse!  The coffee was disgusting!  Despite this, I asked for a second cup since taking on liquid at the start of the day is important. She gave me this with good grace and then a man appeared and put two cakes in front of me. She said that toast was on the way. When she asked me if I wanted a third coffee she asked if I was American. No English I said. But you speak Spanish without a foreign accent. When I told her that I am a priest and that I had worked in El Salvador she was most interested. The man appeared with a bottle of whisky and poured a generous measure into his coffee. He insisted in pouring a ( thankfully) smaller amount into mine. They were most impressed with my sandals. When the girl who I had met yesterday arrived she greeted me with: 'hola guapo' which is what youngsters use as a chat up line!  In the end it was a lovely encounter even if the breakfast was awful.
The second moment was almost as funny. In Torres del Rio there is a church which is in the same style as Eunate. Sure enough when you entered the village the similarity was evident. The church was closed but there was a notice on the door with a phone number. Instead I headed for the nearest bar hoping for better information. In the courtyard were three locals who all greeted me warmly. I asked the barman about the church and he said that the lady in the courtyard was the custodian! She seemed quite happy to oblige me.  As we walked down the street I told her that I am a priest.  She opened the door and I said that I would leave my things outside, No, bring them in, she said. I saw that there was an admission charge. "I can't charge you, she said, as you are a priest!". The chapel is clearly by the same architect as Eunate. There is also an exquisite 13th century crucifix. I knelt before it and said some prayers. I had heard that the chapel has a wonderful acoustic. I stood and sung the Taize chant O Lord hear my prayers, when I call answer me,  O Lord hear my prayer come and listen to me. The other visitors didn't mind. On the Camino you lose your inhibitions as well as your illusions. I went to take a photo outside and then got the lady to stamp my creencial.
Outside Viana I bumped into Gony who was sitting on a bench rolling a cigarette. I explained that I had got his name wrong on the first day he appears in the blog. He is staying the night in Viana and it could well be that I don't see him again. It has been one of the memorable encounters. I was in Logrono by 2.30

Ambushed ( postscript)

I don't know if the final section of yesterday's post came through. Here it is in case. It was only 11.30 when I arrived at Los Arcos. I was tempted to carry on, but decided to enjoy the short day. Gingerly I rang the bell to the Albergue-I heard a voice shouting I'm coming. What do you want said the lady who opened the door.  She was a little curt but checked my reservation and let me in. She showed me round and then disappeared. While I was doing my laundry she carried on a conversation from the first floor where she was still clearing up.
Later I headed to the square in the face of on- coming pilgrims. I met both Carlos and the two men from Belfast. They told me that Gony had already passed by. Jan appeared and commented on the conversation last night. If all people from Israel were like Gony then there would be no conflict. I thought that it was a generous and gracious comment. 

Ambushed

I was soon joined in the dormitory by two men from Belfast, then Carlos appeared, finally the Austrian who had been in the previous Albergue also turned up. I said to Carlos that I planned to go to the monastery at Irache. He said that he would come as well. I checked with the wonderful receptionist and she said that there was a bus. She also booked the next three days for me. Carlos and I set off at 3.30, as we were too early for the bus Carlos suggested we have a beer. There was a very basic bar across the street. Before you knew what was happening I was talking with the barman about Pope Francis!  Back at the bus stop I asked Carlos if he was retired. He said that the company he worked for had gone bust a year ago and he had lost his job. He confessed that it had been very hard but his wife and children had supported him.
I forgot to mention that when we left the hostel Gony  was lying on the bench. He greeted us warmly and said that he would see us at supper.
There was an amusing moment on the bus as the driver went passed Irache. He simply pulled the bus into the side of the road and let us off. Sadly the monastery has not had a community since 1985 and the buildings are becoming derelict. The church was lovely with fantastic Romanesque carvings. We took lots of photos and when we were outside I suggested to Carlos that we visit one of the features of the Camino. At Irache the owners of the Bodegas have set up a fountain of wine for the pilgrims!  We both had a drink and then took photos. Since the next bus was not for an hour I suggested to Carlos that we walk back into town. In fact it was a mere 20 minutes stroll. Carlos was keen to visit the cloisters that I had visited this morning. I said that I would accompany him. When we got to St Peter' s church we found that it was closed. Carlos went to enquire and found that it opens at 6.30. I said that we should have a drink. We found another bar and I ordered a beer for Carlos and a glass of one of my favourite Navarrese wines as well as a ham and cheese roll. Later I had a second wine. When I paid the bill it was euro 5.50. In a London wine bar a wine of the same quality would cost at least £7.
After the bar Carlos wanted to take more photos. I stayed in the square watching children play around the fountain. I am glad that I waited to see the cloisters again because the sun was playing on them creating a wonderful light. I took some amazing photos. On the way back to the hostel Carlos said that Spanish people think of the English as rather remote. You have certainly disproved that he said. There was time for a break before supper.
When we went downstairs Jan and the others were enjoying a bottle of wine. At supper Carlos commented that he was the only Spaniard. I sat next to him with Gony in front of me and a lady from Washington State opposite Carlos. Beyond me were Jan and his friends and beyond Carlos a french party. Early in the meal Gony said that it was the first day of Succoth and so we toasted him. He spoke movingly about his family . He has two younger sisters. He also spoke about his time in the army. The lady from Washington is old enough to be his mother and I could tell that she warmed to him. I had to attend to Carlos but became aware of something extraordinary. The lady beyond Gony had clearly been drinking and launched into him quite aggressively about the Arab Israel conflict. I couldn't follow the whole discussion since I was trying to help Carlos and Aileen. What I did note was that Gony began with the Roman destruction of Jerusalem in the first century. What was even more remarkable was his demeanour in replying to his interlocutor. His calmness and gentleness belied his age. It was remarkable. Later in the meal he told me that he did not believe in God but he did believe in spirituality. I commented that the fact that he was doing the Camino showed that he believed in something. He gave me a wry smile.
At the end of the meal Aileen asked me for a blessing. Back in the dormitory the two men from Belfast wanted to know what time I would be up. I said that it was impossible to walk before 7.15 and so I would be up at 6.30. They were very happy with that.
At breakfast Carlos and I were the first to arrive. The girl was slightly surprised when we said that we would sit together. Carlos explained that he was the only Spaniard and that he and I could talk. The girl commented that the French speak no Spanish and most English speakers are the same.
The walk today was very short. I stopped for coffee and then found myself singing the first verse of one of the songs of the St Louis Jesuits:You shall cross the barren desert and you shall not die of thirst. You shall wander far in safety and you shall not lose your way. You shall speak my word in foreign lands and they shall understand. You shall see the face of God and live.
It was overwhelming to reflect how much of that has happened these last five weeks!
  There was a lovely moment not long before I reached my destination at Los Arcos. I saw a walker coming towards me!  I thought I am now going to let this pass by. As she reached me I not only greeted her but asked her whether she was on the way back. She spoke impeccable Spanish and told me that she was now in the fourth month of her journey. She had set off from France journeyed via the Camino Primitivo (del Norte) and was now on her way home. I said that I had come from Le Puy. "Precioso" was her reaction. " The Camino del Norte is the same-few people, small Albergues, and you get to know everyone". I could tell by the way she wished me Buen Camino that she was thrilled that someone had bothered to stop and speak with her.

The Good Samaritan

When I returned from lunch Carlos from Madrid had arrived into our cubicle. He was amazed that I spoke to him in Spanish and his two younger companions came to see who this Spanish speaking Englishman was! After they had gone I was organising myself when the receptionist came with an obviously distressed young man. He flopped into a chair and I allowed him to recover a bit. I then introduced myself. I am Gony he said from Tel Aviv. He has been on the Camino for six days but had found today really hard and nearly fainted on the route. I sat with him for a while and suggested that he rested. I was talking to Carlos a little later on and Gony said that he was in the wrong gite. He asked me whether I thought that they would give him his money back. I said that I thought that they would. Within a few minutes he returned. The other gite was full and the girl had warned him that his was the last bed here. He went off for a shower. Carlos said that he had seen Gony on the way and he was clearly struggling. While Gony was still away the girl returned and asked me: donde esta el chico?  I said that he was in the shower. She said she was going to move him and promptly went off with Gony's sack. I thought that is the last thing he needs.
I went off to write my blog and then Paul, Jan and I wandered into town. Puente La Reina has two churches. The first is dedicated to the crucified Christ and has a magnificent medieval crucifix. The second is much grander and too Baroque for my taste but has some lovely statues. We were then helped by a drunken Spanish man to find the supermarket. Paul was cooking his supper and we all needed supplies. We were then looking for a place for a drink. A French couple hailed me. I had seen them this morning and showed them how to find Eunate. They were thrilled to have seen it and thanked me profusely. They had also been at the mass at Navarrenx and were still talking about it. They return to Normandy tomorrow. I told them that I hope to get to Santiago on 18th October. They say that they will think of me on that day.
At the hostel Charles from New Brunswick offered us a glass of wine. He told me that he was surprised at how many people are on the Camino. He commented that a friend of his had done the route from Le Puy and found the French section much more reflective and holy. I went to sort out the laundry and when I returned Charles was sitting on his own and Gony was at another table still looking very tired. I went and sat with him. Apparently the friends that he was meeting were people he had met on the route. I assured him that this is what happens. You meet people for and then you meet others. Paul appeared after his sausage and black pudding dinner and he and Gony got into conversation. Charles then came and joined us followed by Jan. It came to the time for dinner and I could easily have joined an English speaking table but I had suggested to Carlos that we dine together. At the door to the dining room it turned out that Carlos had no ticket. I said that I would save him a place. At this point Gony turned up and asked if he could sit with me. I asked the waiter if he could set a third place. It was a comical gathering since Carlos speaks no English and Gony no Spanish. Giving translations to both of them we had a far reaching conversation which lasted until 9.00pm. Gony was fascinated when I suggested that the journeys of Abraham and the Exodus are the paradigms for the Camino. He also commented that, unlike Catholicism, Judaism is not hierarchical. He said that Judaism thrives on interpretation and that the Jewish philosophy is to make people think. Towards the end of the evening Carlos said that his wife will not believe it when he says that he had supper with a Spanish speaking English priest and a highly intelligent 23 year old Jew.
Back in the cubicle the french couple had arrived and were thrilled when I engaged them in conversation in French. It was a noisy night but you still get enough sleep. The only problem is that everyone wants to be up early. It doesn't get light now until after 7.00am and so there is no need to be up until 6.30. This morning there was chaos from 5.45. I found Paul in the kitchen complaining about the noise but happy because he had clean clothes and milk for his muesli. I set off about 7.20. Here in Spain there is a procession in the morning and then people spread out. Once we climbed up from the valley you could see the path snaking away for 2 or 3 kilometres.
As I crossed the bridge I noticed something walking quite carefully. It was Gony. I said that I was sure that we would meet again. Once he is fit he will walk much quicker than I. I then reflected on the encounter with him. I have very trenchant views about Israel and its appalling treatment of the Palestinians. Gony should not be the sort of person that I engage in open conversation. But he needed help and that is what we must do. In retrospect it was a Good Samaritan experience. This led on to another reflection about priesthood. We have clericalised ministry. Jesus was an itinerant preacher not just for two months but for three years. In all of those three years he never put on liturgical finery. ( Indeed the laws of Judaism excluded Him from leading liturgy) The Sunday before I left England a wise lady in Painswick had a group of us round for coffee. She said: you will minister to many people on your pilgrimage. How right she was!  The ministering is about attending to people attentively and respectfully
As the morning progressed we passed through more and more vineyards. For the next few days we are in the heart of the Rioja. Estella has two lovely churches and a XII th century cloister. I took lots of pictures.
Alan Crickmore continues to write thoughtful comments, yesterday I had comments from fellow Lancastrian Peter Walsh, from Helen Lovatt and two from Raphael. Thanks. 

An invitation

When I was planning this pilgrimage I knew that it was important to choose a special day to start. Since Le Puy en Velay is a Marian shrine 15th August was an obvious day. I remember the man who stamped my creencial in the cathedral saying that it was an appropriate day. Now that it is realistic to think about arriving I need to think about the appropriate day. Since the week beginning the 13th October is the obvious time there were 3 choices. 13th October is the Feast of St Edward the Confessor who has links with Ampleforth and is the patron of the schools where I have worked for the last six years. This time last year I was preparing for the wonderful mass in Tewkesbury Abbey with the special aspect of celebrating on the medieval high altar. 15th October is the feast of St Theresa of Avila and the mystical tradition is a theme of this pilgrimage. 18th October is the feast of St Luke. This is the evangelist who gave us the Emmaus story., the Parables and the three great canticles- the Benedictus, the Magnificat, and the Nunc Dimittis. The birth of Jesus is witnessed by humble Shepherds just as the legend of Santiago began with a shepherd. But, above all, Luke reveals Jesus as a pilgrim. He becomes the paradigm of how we should live. Then it was obvious. 18th October is the day to arrive at Santiago. It is a Friday so if you can get a flight with Ryanair and come and greet a tearful pilgrim as he kneels before the Portico de la Gloria. I know that there will be tears-whether of sadness or joy it does not matter. Tears are cathartic. So if you can, come and join me before I set off on 21st for Finisterre

Photos

Eunate

Entering Pamplona

ON top of the Pyrenees

Lost in their own country

When I had finished my blog I found that two groups had formed on the patio. The older Americans were talking loudly and guzzling beer while a younger group were drinking wine as if prohibition were returning tomorrow!  As I observed them two Spanish couples arrived and looked terribly lost. After a while I lay on my bed and rested before supper. I had arranged to have supper with Paul. It was funny as he had joined the younger drinking group and was quite high when we headed off. The Canadian couple from yesterday were in the restaurant. I had some lovely Hake and a good chat with Paul.
When I returned to my special bed one of the Spanish ladies was sitting on her bunks. She was clearly thrilled when I addressed her in Spanish!  Eventually her three companions joined her. They are from Irun and are spending a week on the Camino. They couldn't believe that I was a priest. One of them said that he had been really frustrated this afternoon as he wanted to talk about the experience and everyone was speaking English. I said that I found it embarrassing that Spanish people should feel outsiders in their own country. We had a lovely conversation.
Despite some amazingly loud snorers I slept well. I did not get up until 7.00am as this was a short day. It dawned overcast but not as cold as yesterday. At one point I stopped to take off my fleece and my Spanish friends passed me with warm greetings. The main part of the route today is up a hill appropriately called the hill of pardon. On the pilgrimage you spend a lot of time for giving others and allowing yourself to be forgiven.
There is a special place in this part of Spain which I first discovered with my dear friends Andre and Barbara Phanjoo. It is the Ermita de Santa Maria de Eunate. It is one of the most numinous places that I know. I would say that it is in the middle of nowhere but in the centre of everything. It is one thing to arrive at Eunate in a car but to know that you have walked over 850kms to get here is something special!  Seeing the chapel across the cornfields brought tears to my eyes. I prayed for deceased friends. Over the last two days I have been praying a lot for a girl called Holly Grogan who, at the age of 15, ended her life in terrible circumstances 4 years ago. I prayed for her her parents and her brother.
I left my rucksack outside the chapel and went in. It was overwhelming. So often on this pilgrimage I am overawed by the privilege. Kathleen Raines line: "how can a house so small contain a company so great", came to mind. On pilgrimage you feel an amazing connectedness to so many people. Just as I was finishing my prayers the music was one of my favourite Taize chants: "the Kingdom of God is justice and peace and joy in the Holy Spirit". I can vouch for the fact that there is much joy in the Holy Spirit on the pilgrimage. Paul was outside having a cigarette!  He is a glorious combination of the uninhibited nature of youth.
As we walked into Puente La Reina I stopped to let a man passed. He is David from Switzerland who has spent 30 days walking from Arles. We had a lovely conversation and arranged to meet tomorrow. Today's gite is something else. It is the basement of a three star hotel. Even though it is bunk accommodation the bunks are divided into groups of 4, I took the dinner, bed and breakfast option and still only paid 27euros. Paul, Jan (from Denmark) and I wallowed in the showers. I told Paul that I was going to pay for the washing machine. I offered him the chance to put some stuff in!  I thought that he was going to strip naked as he was so happy to take advantage, Jan had a few things to dry and I suggested that he leave them with ours. What is the pilgrimage I said if you cannot share.
I then headed up to the hotel restaurant for the 10 euros buffet lunch, I commented to the girl in charge that the music was Mexican rancheros, Halfway through the lunch something amazing happened. The song was Las Manjanitas. This is the traditional song sung on a person's birthday. Every year in El Salvador there would be a chorus outside my bedroom complete with musicians singing this song for me. I was transported back to those wonderful and big hearted people of Chalatenango. Priesthood is not about status it is about walking with people especially people who are suffering. I have been amazingly privileged to have walked with so many people in their suffering. It is overwhelming to contemplate how much they have blessed me, I was reminded of the words of Oscar Romero: with these people it is not difficult to be a pastor,